Everyone looked at me with the same “are you crazy?!” stare when I said I was going to Iceland in the middle of winter. What they didn’t know is that it has been at the top of my bucket list for years now, that I had done my research and was thoroughly aware of what I was getting myself into, and that it has quickly become one of the top vacation destinations in the world.
These are my takeaways—and answers to the questions I’ve most frequently received—regarding visiting Iceland in winter:
- Do fly WOW Airlines—it’s not as terrible as you might think. True, there is no in-flight entertainment (it’s BYOM—bring your own movies—on these flights), and there are no free meals or A/C controls, but it’s still better than some of the other “affordable” airlines (Spirit, Frontier, TAP frickin Portugal). I didn’t have to pay to print my boarding pass, didn’t feel squished in my seat, and didn’t feel like I was in a 20-year-old-plane that could go down at any second. Overall, I give them three stars, would fly again.
- Do expect Iceland’s customs and immigration process to be the easiest you’ve ever undergone. We breezed through the lines, I even received a couple smiles. And when departing, I didn’t even have to be present for check-in or checking my luggage. My friend gave my name and they checked me in. No passport needed. No Shay needed. (This made me equal parts happy and uneasy, but I felt better knowing I still had to show my passport at immigration.)
- Do hold onto your hats and gloves. The wind will blow them away if you let go even for a second. According to the number of gloves on the speed-dating gate in downtown Reykjavik, I’m not the only person who experienced this.
- Don’t expect to get anything other than a sad car if you’re booking a rental car through a company called “Sadcars.” Luckily, we made it back from each of our day trips without any issues from our 1998 Sadcar (which had at least 300,000 miles on it).
- Do start day trips earlier in order to bypass all the tourist buses. Because nothing is worse than being stuck behind a crowd of tourists, trying to see past their selfie sticks for a look at Gullfoss.
- Do stop at every lagoon you see. These were the most relaxing part of the trip. I definitely recommend Secret Lagoon over the ever-popular Blue Lagoon. If you can only do one, do the Secret Lagoon to avoid crowds, gunk in your hair, goop between your toes, and ridiculous prices.
- Do pack some Yaktrax. One of the best feelings in the world is walking across slick ice, being able to focus on the majestic waterfall in front of you, and laughing at everyone falling on their butts around you because they don’t have these amazing little contraptions. In the words of my friend Nate, “Yaktrax are clutch.”
- Do get ice cream, no matter how cold it may be outside. Iceland makes great ice cream (Eldur & Is, to name my favorite shop). Just be sure to try flavors you aren’t sure about before ordering them. (Watch out for the black licorice swirl in that chocolate-brownie ice cream you’re eyeing.)
- Do watch out for waves on beaches. Prior to my trip, I had read several blogs warning me of this, and I’m so glad I remembered while in Vik. These massive waves (some 10-15 feet tall) will soak you if you aren’t paying close enough attention.
- Don’t ask for ranch, whatever you do. The kitchen staff will laugh at you for the remainder of your time in the restaurant. There’s a reason the Doritos in Iceland come in “Cool American Flavor.” (This pretty much applies to any country in Europe.)
- Do check out the nightlife in downtown Reykjavik, it’s unlike anything I’ve ever experienced. Places stay open until 5am, there aren’t covers to pay, food trucks line the streets of downtown. Veggie burger for the ½ mile walk back to my Airbnb? YES PLEASE.
- Don’t dance in a parka. Some clubs don’t have coat checks, so that makes clubbing awkward (cough, American Bar). Instead, find a bar or club with a coat check so you don’t look like a puffy marshmallow bobbing around. (Austur has a free coat check and is much nicer than American Bar.)
- Do get coffee at Sandholt. I in no way consider myself a coffee connoisseur, but I had the best coffee of my life in Reykjavik. Delish food, amazing coffee, cozy atmosphere—go here.
- Don’t be surprised when mom-and-pop shops close for a “sick day.” These places may not always abide by their regularly scheduled hours. This may happen, for example, because the chef (the restaurant/home owner’s wife) is sick. Disappointing? Yes. But also super awesome because the food is so authentically Icelandic when it is open.
- Don’t let your liver be bigger than your eyes when it comes to buying bottles at duty free. While yes, it is cheaper than buying it in the city, and certainly cheaper than going to bars, make sure you only buy what you can handle, unless you’re good with bringing that handle back in your luggage with you.
- Do get the mini bottle of Brennivin to try before buying an entire bottle. The taste doesn’t suit everyone. Read up a little about it beforehand, too, so you know why it has such a unique flavor.
- Do anticipate high prices. Everything is expensive in Iceland. A head of lettuce is $5. A full tank of gas for a [sad] SUV is around $200. Iceland is an island very near the Arctic Circle, meaning they can’t grow very much, and have to import A LOT. Therefore, they’ve got taxes on taxes on taxes, resulting in the ridiculously high prices you pay for a tomato, bottle of wine, and especially gasoline. (Except hot dogs. Them hot dogs are cheap. But they don’t have veggie dogs at the stands. #disappointed)
Iceland hack: Instead of going out to eat for every meal, do some grocery shopping! Frozen pizzas and Iceland’s delicious Skyr are cheap alternatives to restaurant meals, and will save you a decent chunk of change if you’re staying for more than a day or two-long stopover.
- Don’t be caught off-guard when the weather changes suddenly. There’s a saying in Iceland: “Don’t like the weather? Wait five minutes.” It’s true, so be prepared to change your plans, your route, and your clothes at some point.
- Don’t expect to see the Northern Lights just because you are in Iceland. Although it may be peak season for them, they are just as unpredictable as the weather. Just know, that even if you don’t see them during your trip, that’s just one more reason for you to return to magical Iceland.
nice
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